Oregon Coast
I'm writing this as if we weren't limited by a pandemic in the hopes that one day you will be able to visit these places with wild abandon. In the meantime, you'll need to confirm that parks and other locations are open.
South of Newport
Yachats (1h30 from Corvallis)
There is a lot to enjoy on this part of the coast, so you could easily spend days here. That said, its proximity to Corvallis allows for a lovely day trip.
Cape Perpetua Scenic Area
You'll be able to see the most notable sites from pullouts along the highway. There are some short paved trails for a closer look. If you feel like hiking, St. Perpetua trail leaves from the visitor center and heads up to a stone shelter with an amazing view. If you don't, you can drive to the top. Download a trail map here.
Eating and Drinking
- Bread and Roses Bakery
- The Green Salmon has coffee, tea, and good food
- Yachats Brewing
- Ona
- Drift Inn
Lodging
My absolute favorite is the quirky Ocean Haven.
Between Yachats and Florence
Heceta Head Lighthouse
In my opinion the best way to visit is by taking the Hobbit Trail. You can take it to the lighthouse, where you will might see the light on the trees before the lighthouse itself. The hike is scenic and not terribly challenging. The trail splits to the lighthouse or the beach, and both are very doable together.
Notice I did not mention the Sea Lion Caves. It's truly not worth it, unless you want to giggle at the kitschy crap in the gift shop.
Florence (1h30ish from Corvallis, about 40 minutes south of Yachats)
The last time we were there, I wasn't super impressed with the town of Florence. There is a good coffee shop by the river. We ate lunch at a restaurant near the bridge, but it's not worth mentioning. My guess is it won't be there by the time you visit.
Many years ago, I stayed at Jessie M. Honeyman State Park. I remember I loved the campground and used it to explore the huge dunes nearby. Some people rent buggies and other recreational toys for the dunes, but I prefer walking them. These are not your typical dunes--they are huge. If memory serves me, they are even more impressive farther south near Coos Bay.
Newport North to Astoria
You may be very familiar with this area by now, but I'll include it just in case there are a few things that are new.
Newport
Nye Beach is the best spot. Visit the Nye Beach Wine Cellar where Zach can help you find exactly what you're looking for. Enjoy coffee and baked goods at Panini, beer and lunch at Nana's. On the Bayfront, Local Ocean is classy, but Mo's is a classic.
Yaquina Head Outstanding Natural Area is a great place for tide pooling and watching the waves--be sure you read the tide table before you go. A pair of peregrine falcons nests in the cliffs by the visitor center.
Heading north, Otter Rock and Devil's Punchbowl are a nice stop. It's a good place to look for whale spouts, and there's also a Mo's here. If you are a surfer, you can rent gear at Ossie's on the way.
Depoe Bay doesn't have much to offer. My grandparents retired here from Monmouth, so we would often walk under the bridge to watch the birds and the boats. After holiday meals, we'd head out to get sprayed by Spouting Horn. There are some good beach access points near here, and the Boiler Bay pullout is a nice whale watching viewpoint. When I was a kid, my dad and I went fishing in Boiler Bay. I remember the trail being little known and kind of treacherous, but fun.
Lincoln City (1h30 north from Corvallis)
Although I have spent a lot of time here, I don't necessarily recommend it. While I haven't hiked it since I was a small child, I remember Cascade Head being a good hike.
Farther North
About 25 minutes north of Lincoln City, Neskowin is the site of the ghost forest. Beyond that, not much is a must-see until you get to Oswald West State Park. If you decide to keep driving north along 101 on a longer trip, Pacific City has its own Haystack Rock, as well as the original Pelican Brewery. In Tillamook, you'll see the carcasses of the blimp hangars, and you can visit the cheese factory to watch the operation in action and get some ice cream.
North Coast
Depending on how much you want to see, you can take 99 or the freeway, cutting west to your southernmost destination. My favorite parts of this region begin as far south as Neahkahnie Mountain and Oswald West State Park, and extend north to Astoria. This area should be done in at least a long weekend--a day wouldn't be worth it.
Oswald West State Park used to have a campground, which I assure you was magical, but due to large trees regularly crashing into sites during storms, it has been permanently closed. It does offer an incredible pullout for coast views and whale sightings as well as two notable hikes: Neahkahnie Mountain and Cape Falcon. On the Cape Falcon trail you will likely pass surfers coming and going from Short Sands beach.
Cannon Beach
From Portland, south of the junction (101/26) is the cute and often crowded town of Cannon Beach. Ecola State Park is at the north entrance, and it has beautiful views. The hike to the water was washed out and closed last time I visited, and sadly it doesn't look like it will be repaired in the near future. It's possible to hike to Seaside over Tillamook Head, but without vehicles at both trail heads, it's a long day. (If you really want to hike part of it, start in Seaside near the cove and hike to the hikers' camp and back.) Update: Ecola may not be open at all anymore, so double-check. I do hope they can restore the road because it's a great place.
In town, avoid Public Coast Brewing (a friend of the family calls it Pubic Coast). Instead, hit up Bill's Tavern, or even Pelican. For coffee, go to Sleepy Monk in Midtown. A little south of Sleepy Monk on Hemlock is a good access point for Haystack Rock. As you drive up the hill, there is a tiny pullout on the east side of the road and a wooden staircase on the west side. If there's room in the pullout, the stairs lead right down to the beach. Check the tide tables for the best intertidal viewing. I used to work at Haystack Rock Awareness Program, so I can help identify some of the creatures you would see there.
Seaside
If you like arcades, bumper cars, elephant ears, and taffy, Seaside would be fun. I used to work at the aquarium; it's small and privately owned. Most people enjoy feeding the seals but are disappointed by the aquarium itself (rest assured, the animals are very well cared for). Walking on the prom and taking a quick Lewis & Clark pic is nice, but when time is limited, other parts of the coast are more interesting and less busy. When I was in high school, we used to count how many times we could circle the turnaround before another car came. There just isn't much to do. (In August check the dates for the volleyball tournament and Hood to Coast because it's not worth visiting then--too crowded and no lodging.)
On the south end of Seaside (Avenue U by Les Schwab) is "The Cove." There are a few south streets that converge at the rocky cove where the waves crash and surfers bob in the water. The views here are the best, and it's usually not busy except for people changing in and out of their wetsuits (it's not uncommon to see a couple in the buff). If you keep heading south, you'll end up at the top of a hill where the Tillamook Head trailhead is. This trail ends in Cannon Beach, so you can do a two-car shuttle (double-check conditions to see if the full route is open). It's a challenging trail that isn't well maintained, but I love running there. I usually go to the Hiker's Camp and turn around. You'll be able to see the lighthouse from that point, so it's a fine destination.
Astoria
Astoria is an old canning/fishing town at the mouth of the Columbia River aka the Graveyard of the Pacific. Bar pilots can be seen guiding ships past the dangerous Columbia River bar. Recently the town has become a destination for its history, food, and drink. There are some fun shops, funky museums, and beautiful old homes. In locating links for this page, I came across a New Yorker article, published when I was in high school in 1993, about the local Flavel family (you can tour the Flavel House in town). If you have a subscription, you can read "The Magnificent Flavels." Fans of The Goonies make it a mission to hunt down the Goonies house, but last I heard its newest owner loves privacy and not tourists, so tread lightly.
Fort Clatsop is a small national park interesting if you are a fan of the Lewis & Clark Expedition. I visit for Fort to Sea trail, which is about 12 miles round trip and is one of my favorite trail runs. You can also begin this trail from the "Sea" end at Sunset Beach, which is a few miles north of Gearhart. In the parking lot, head west over the grassy dunes for a view of the beach, and then back through the parking lot east through a forest that was damaged in the Great Gale of 2007. The trail also winds through cattle gates and under highway 101; sometimes it's nice to walk as far as the big, trussed bridge and turnaround. From the "fort" side, you'll have a nice walk through trees and ferns before ending up on a dirt road. At the top of the road, though, you have a nice view toward the ocean and delightful single-track switchbacks on the way to the sea.
Definitely climb up the Astoria Column if it's open. There are a couple of ways to get there. You can follow the little column icons in the street and weave up through the historic town, or you can drive along the Youngs River and follow signs up the hill.
Another great stop in the area is Fort Stevens State Park. It's an old military installation with ghostly bunkers. The park has a nice system of paved trails as well. Check out the South Jetty observation deck and the wreck of the Peter Iredale.
Astoria Food and Drink:
- Street 14 Cafe
- Blue Scorcher
- Fort George
- Buoy Brewing
- Urban Cafe
- Sample smoked fish at Josephson's Smokehouse
- Also in Astoria but not recommended: Rogue and Astoria Brewing
North Coast Area Hikes (details I copied from another of my posts, so largely redundant):
- Saddle Mountain (east of Seaside on highway 26 from Portland) Haven't done it in years but have been meaning to take Patrick.
- Cape Falcon (south of Cannon beach on highway 101) Last time we ran it, it was very muddy, but the views at the end are amazing. My brother-in-law knows a guy who fell off the end and had to be rescued by the coast guard, so watch your footing.
- Neahkahnie Mountain (Oswald West State Park, see link above) I haven't done it since I was a kid, but I remember my mom being real nervous we kids would fall off the mountain.
- Tillamook Head (south end of Seaside known as The Cove; from 101 turn at Avenue U, then turn south on Edgewood continuing along the ocean and up the hill) Note that this trail isn't well maintained in parts. It does have a view of the lighthouse and you should be able to hear sea lions.
- Fort to Sea Trail (either start at the Sunset Beach access--north of Seaside; south of Astoria follow signs off 101; other option is starting at Fort Clatsop) If you start at Sunset Beach, the trail eventually takes you through cattle gates and farms by highway 101. You might want to stop at the big metal bridge at Neacoxie Lake and turn around there if the pasture doesn't interest you. I'm not sure how far in that is, but it's 2 miles total from the trailhead to the highway. Also, be aware that a significant population of elk is in the area; be wary particularly during calving season (June). The Sunset Beach access also continues to the actual beach (obviously), which is a nice walk through the dunes, though there are vehicles on the beach at that point making it not super pleasant to stay. From the Fort Clatsop trailhead, the hike is 4 miles to highway 101. This map shows the different segments. I like to go past the overlook because that's where the switchbacks start.
- I've never seen a cougar, but they do live in the area. You aren't likely to see one, but sometimes it's good to be reminded that the Coast Range does have large mammals.
Clearly I can go on and on about the Oregon Coast. This is certainly more than you need, but I'm happy to do it. If it turns out you have more questions or want to know about other trips and travels, it's a pleasant distraction from reading the news and hiding from the virus. Enjoy my home state for me!
