Bend
Bend is amazing, and my guess is that you'll wish you had more time here. First, the drive from PDX is about 3h15, but I have a couple suggestions for stops along the way. In Sandy, Joe's Donuts is a tiny shop frequented by skiers on their way to Mt. Hood in the winter. It's worth a stop. You'll likely enjoy the drive through the Mt. Hood National Forest. With limited time, I'd head on to Central Oregon, but it's about 15 minutes off the highway to Timberline Lodge from Government Camp if you want to see the lodge and maybe hike near Mt. Hood. I've only been there to ski in the winter, so I'm not sure about the details.
Once in Central Oregon, Smith Rock State Park is about 30 minutes northeast of Bend. There's very little shade, and it's hot during the day, but the rocks and views are great. Also note that the town of Terrebonne doesn't offer much, so it's best to tote your own snacks and save meals for Bend itself.
Finally, Bend. I've also written about it in another post for my friend, Dorothy. Your interests are a bit different, however. You will likely want to visit the Lava Lands Visitor Center and Newberry Volcanic National Monument. It's been years since I went, and Patrick may have a better recollection of it, but I don't recall the hikes being particularly long. Another option a little south of Newberry is the Lava River Cave. If you've done caving before, this is just a long tube, but you geo-nerds might find it interesting. I liked it because it was cool, and I didn't have any allergies down there.
As far as hiking in and near Bend, I admit I haven't done much. This map has an overview of locations in the area. I'd love to do South Sister someday, but that's likely a longer hike than you have time for. Black Butte is a popular hike near Sisters. I know I've done a little of the Deschutes River Trail (which is exactly as it sounds) and I've done a trail race at Shevlin Park. This link offers some good descriptions of popular options around the area.
There are several breweries in Bend. My favorites are Boneyard and Crux. Some local beer purists have turned away 10 Barrel and Deschutes; both also have pubs in Portland. The original location of Deschutes is not worth a visit unless you really love their beer. There are now two locations in Bend for 10 Barrel, but I've only been to the one in town. I enjoy it, particularly in the evening when the outdoor fire is going. (I do not recommend the Portland location--the food isn't great and the service is extreme hipster time.) Boneyard used to only have a tiny tasting room but now has a brewpub. The Boneyard RPM is one of my favorite beers ever. Crux Fermentation Project can be tricky to find but has a nice view of the mountains. I don't see their menu online anymore, so that may have changed, but I used to like their food. GoodLife is another brewery in town, but I've never actually been.
*For sweet treats and ice cream in downtown Bend, try Goody's.
Bend to the Central Oregon Coast
A drive to the coast from Bend is a long one. One option is Bend to Florence (3h45). Florence is on the central coast and has a cute river walk area with a good coffee shop, although I've forgotten the name. It is also access to the Oregon Dunes Recreational Area. You'll want to investigate which areas are for motorized vehicles and which are for hikers. The dunes are worth checking out because they are huge. North of Florence, don't bother with the Sea Lion Caves. It's a kitschy tourist spot. Instead, stop at Heceta Head lighthouse and on to Yachats. I'd recommend staying in Yachats (say YAH-hots) if you can find a spot. Ocean Haven is quirky, but has great views and a nice beach access. Around Yachats, you can explore Cape Perpetua (views and hiking trails), as well as a variety of scenic roadside stops.
From Yachats, you can drive up the coast to Newport before heading east to I5 and up to Portland (Newport to Portland about 2h45 depending on traffic). Newport also has some good stuff to see if you have time: charming Nye Beach (Panini Bakery!), Yaquina Bay Lighthouse/Outstanding Natural Area, and Otter Rock/Devil's Punchbowl (also a Mo's location). Newport's historic bayfront is best walked for views of the bridge, smells from the harbor, and sounds of the sea lions. You might stop for chowder at the original Mo's or a nice meal at Local Ocean, but the whole area is mostly giftshops and the tourist trap that is Ripley's Believe It or Not. My parents stay at the Inn at Nye Beach when they visit, and I've known many people to stay at Sylvia Beach, which is a literary themed hotel.
Bend to the North Oregon Coast
Bend to Astoria is 4h45-5h depending on traffic. Astoria to PDX is about 1h45 to 2h.
Bend to Cannon Beach is about 4h30. Cannon Beach to PDX is about 2 hours.
Both towns are fun to visit and are also described in the post to Dorothy on this blog.
Astoria
Astoria is an old canning/fishing town at the mouth of the Columbia River aka the Graveyard of the Pacific. Bar pilots can be seen guiding ships past the treacherous Columbia River bar. Recently the town has become a destination for its history, food, and drink. I've stayed at Hotel Elliott, but I usually stay with my parents when in the area.
Fort Clatsop is a small national park interesting if you are a fan of the Lewis & Clark Expedition. It does have a Fort to Sea trail, which is about 12 miles round trip and is one of my favorite trail runs.
Definitely climb up the Astoria Column. There are a couple of ways to get there. You can follow the little column icons in the street and weave up through the historic town, or you can drive along the Youngs River and follow signs up the hill.
Another great stop in the area is Fort Stevens State Park. It's an old military installation with ghostly bunkers. The park has a nice system of paved trails as well. Check out the South Jetty observation deck and the wreck of the Peter Iredale.
Astoria Food and Drink:
- Street 14 Cafe
- Blue Scorcher
- Fort George
- Buoy Brewing
- Urban Cafe
- Sample smoked fish at Josephson's Smokehouse
- Also in Astoria but not recommended: Rogue and Astoria Brewing
South of the junction (101/26) is the cute and often crowded town of Cannon Beach. Ecola State Park is at the north entrance, and it has beautiful views. The hike to the water was washed out and closed last time I visited, and sadly it doesn't look like it will be repaired in the near future. It's possible to hike to Seaside over Tillamook Head, but without vehicles at both trail heads, it's a long day. (If you really want to hike part of it, start in Seaside near the cove and hike to the hikers' camp and back.)
In town, avoid Public Coast Brewing (a friend of the family calls it Pubic Coast). Instead, hit up Bill's Tavern, or even Pelican. For coffee, go to Sleepy Monk in Midtown. A little south of Sleepy Monk on Hemlock is a good access point for Haystack Rock. As you drive up the hill, there is a tiny pullout on the east side of the road and a wooden staircase on the west side. If there's room in the pullout, the stairs lead right down to the beach. Check the tide tables for the best intertidal viewing. I used to work at Haystack Rock Awareness Program, so I can help identify some of the creatures you would see there.
North Coast Area Hikes:
- Saddle Mountain (east of Seaside on highway 26 from Portland) Haven't done it in years but have been meaning to take Patrick.
- Cape Falcon (south of Cannon beach on highway 101) Last time we ran it, it was very muddy, but the views at the end are amazing. My brother-in-law knows a guy who fell off the end and had to be rescued by the coast guard, so watch your footing.
- Tillamook Head (south end of Seaside known as The Cove; from 101 turn at Avenue U, then turn south on Edgewood continuing along the ocean and up the hill) Note that this trail isn't well maintained in parts. It does have a view of the lighthouse and you should be able to hear sea lions.
- Fort to Sea Trail (either start at the Sunset Beach access--north of Seaside; south of Astoria follow signs off 101; other option is starting at Fort Clatsop) If you start at Sunset Beach, the trail eventually takes you through cattle gates and farms by highway 101. You might want to stop at the big metal bridge at Neacoxie Lake and turn around there if the pasture doesn't interest you. I'm not sure how far in that is, but it's 2 miles total from the trailhead to the highway. Also, be aware that a significant population of elk is in the area; be wary particularly during calving season (June). The Sunset Beach access also continues to the actual beach (obviously), which is a nice walk through the dunes, though there are vehicles on the beach at that point making it not super pleasant to stay. From the Fort Clatsop trailhead, the hike is 4 miles to highway 101. This map shows the different segments. I like to go past the overlook because that's where the switchbacks start.
- I've never seen a cougar, but they do live in the area. You aren't likely to see one, but sometimes it's good to be reminded that the Coast Range does have large mammals.
Well, I've run out of steam on this post for now. Let me know if you have questions, and have a great trip!
